Introduction
How To Use This Class, Prerequisites, Materials

Lesson 1
The Pattern

Lesson 2
Planning Your Socks

Lesson 3
Cast On, Cuff, Leg

Lesson 4
Sherman Heel

Lesson 5
Foot, Sherman Toe

Lesson 6
Kitchener Stitch

More Ideas
The Not-So-Basic Ribbed Sock

Tips & Tricks
2 Socks on 2 Circulars, Heel Gaps, Kitchener Points, Using Markers

Basic Ribbed Socks

Lesson 5: Foot, Sherman Toe

When your heel is complete, begin knitting in the round again. Continue ribbing the instep of your sock and knitting along the heel stitches, which are now forming the sole of your sock.

After you've worked an inch or so after the heel, you can measure how deep your Sherman Heel turned out and fine tune the number of rounds to knit for the foot of your sock. Lay your sock out flat in profile so that the sock looks like an elbow macaroni. Find the wrap at the end of the miter in the heel, and measure from there along the miter line to the pivot row of the heel. This number is M.

Here's a picture of my ruler lined up at the miter line of my heel:

Measuring miter line.

Now enter M on your chart and calculate the number of rows you need to knit for the foot of your sock. After doing this, my chart looks like:

Leg Diameter (inches)
D
Gauge (st/inch)
Gs
Reduction (%)
R
Number of Stitches
to Cast On
D x Gs x R = C
9"
7
5%
60
Foot Length
L
Gauge (rows/inch)
Gr
Miter Length
M
Number of Rounds
for Foot
Gr x (L - 2 M) = F
9.5"
10
2.25"
50
Ribbing Pattern k2p2
Ribbing Repeat
(number of stitches)
4 stitches On first round,
start ribbing with
k1p2
Cast on method Twisted German
Rounds for Leg/Cuff
60
 
Rounds before heel
6
1/10 C
Unworked heel stitches
10
= 1/6 of C
Rounds for Foot
50
= C - 2 (or F)
Rounds in Plain Stockinette before toe
0
= 2
Unworked toe stitches
10
= 1/6 of C

I decided to carry the ribbing all the way down to the toe instead of knitting 2 rounds in stockinette, so I noted that on my chart as well.

It's okay if you are knitting socks for someone else and don't know the length of his or her foot. In this case, just put C - 2 in for the number of rounds to knit for the foot of your sock. This proportion works pretty well for most people. C - 2 would have been a little long for me, but remember that I only took a 5% reduction in my cast on stitches. I also have a wide foot, so my D measurement is a bit bigger than that of other women with my shoe size. If I had deducted 10%, the difference in rows between my calculated L and C - 2 estimate would have been less.

Here's what my sock looked like after most of the foot was done:

Foot almost finished.

When you've knit the right number of rounds for your foot, it's time to start your Sherman Toe. The Sherman Toe is worked exactly like a Sherman Heel, except you don't have to do the wrap rows before you begin. Refer back to http://www.knitlist.com/2002/ToeUpSock.htm and your chart for instructions.

When you are done, arrange the sole stitches on one needle and the instep stitches on another so that you can graft the toe closed. Here's what my sock looked like at this point:

Ready to Kitchener stitch the toe closed.

Now you can try on your sock to see how it will fit. If your sock is a bit too long, you can frog out the toe and a few rounds from the foot, then reknit the toe. If it's too short, you can frog out the toe and add a few rounds to the foot, then reknit the toe. In either case adjust your chart so that your second sock will match the first.

Almost done! You'll finish your sock in the next Lesson!

Proceed to next Lesson